This new year I was fortunate enough to visit the famous and ancient Jamaica Inn, sitting high on Bodmin Moor in Cornwall. I’d visited this Inn once before, many years ago, so when I got the chance to actually go and spend the night at the old smugglers hangout, I couldn’t get there quick enough!

I was aiming to get there late afternoon, so that I could check in, and perhaps pick the brains of the staff on duty to see what kind of paranormal activity they had experienced whilst working there. Unfortunately, coming from the North West on the M6, I encountered endless delays on the motorway, and I arrived after 7pm.

The History of the Jamaica Inn

The Jamaica Inn has stood on Bodmin Moor since it was first built as a coaching inn in 1776 where travellers and smugglers alike used to stop to rest their horses. The original plot where it stand was owned by wealthy landowners and leased by retired sea captain John Broad.

The Inn did away with a long detour to avoid the perils of the moor, and encouraged the Royal Mail to start using this route from Exeter to Falmouth because its post boys, or dispatch riders, could now rest half way.

The novelist Daphne du Maurier became a big lover of the Jamaica Inn after herself and a friend got lost in fog, horse riding on the moors, in 1930. They were led back to the Inn where she recovered from her ordeal staying in room 3 and being regaled with tales of ghosts and smugglers by the local rector.

She wrote her novel of the same name this same year, and made the Jamaica Inn famous worldwide.

Jamaica Inn’s Ghosts!

The Inn has its fair share of ghosts roaming the halls and the grounds. There is even a plaque in the dining room that marks the spot where some poor man met his end.

The ghosts of the inn don’t mind when they are seen either, popping up during daylight as well as through the night.

Outside the Inn there are stories of a man seen sitting on the wall who doesn’t speak or acknowledge anyone around him. In the courtyard there are sounds of horses galloping to a halt near the old stable block, and coaches crunching across gravel.

Barrels can also be heard being rolled across the front courtyard, towards the cellar doors.

Inside, staff over the years have reported hearing voices talking in a foreign tongue. Could they be speaking old Cornish? Or could it be the spirits of smugglers from distant shores?

A young blonde haired Victorian girl is frequently seen all over the Inn, with her giggles echoing through the rooms. And a small boy who has been nicknamed ‘Tommy’ wanders through the museum, the ladies toilets and room number 5.

Disembodied footsteps can be heard throughout the night, wandering the upstairs hallway between rooms 3 and 6, but when anybody has opened their door to see who it is, there is nobody there. The automatic lights have also been known to come on by themselves as if being triggered by an unknown force.

Down in the main bar, a man in a tricorn hat has appeared before visitors, before walking through solid doors.

Visiting The Jamaica Inn

The Inn is a stunning building, and currently consists of the old Inn, a museum and gift shop, and a new extension housing luxury en suite bedrooms for weary travellers exploring the area.

As I explained earlier, I arrived quite late in the day, so had to do all my exploring without a guide. I checked in and was given my key to room number 3, where Daphne du Maurier stayed in 1930. It was a beautiful en suite room with a dressing area and a four poster bed. It’s also where footsteps can be heard roaming the halls deep into the night, so I was looking forward to some action.

I ordered a Jamaica Inn burger at the bar, which was delicious and couldn’t have been served with more grace. It’s a tiny bit expensive, but this is something to be expected from a touristy hotel and not something that will break the bank. And there is plenty to choose from on the menu, so something for everyone.

Settling in for the night, I stayed awake until well into the early hours listening for any evidence of things that go bump in the night. Unfortunately, apart from the pipes in the en suite wailing when I flushed the loo or ran a tap, I didn’t encounter much. There was lots of banging and thumping from the room next door (not of the ghostly kind, I dont think), and the music from the bar below went on until closing time, but I didn’t hear anything in the hallway or inside my room. A shame really, because I was looking forward to someone, or something, proving to this sceptic that there is definitely life after death.

After a couple of hours sleep towards dawn, I went down for breakfast, which was included in the winter saver bed and breakfast deal. Again, the staff were a delight and couldn’t be nicer. I got sat on a table by a window with a beautiful view across the moors, where I could imagine smugglers and coaches galloping past on cold misty nights. The lady who served me was amazing and answered all my questions about the area and what there was nearby to go and explore. The famous pond where King Arthur received Excalibur from the Lady in the Lake is about five minutes away, and Tintagel Castle about 25 minutes away. Beware if you have mobility issues though, they’re not easily accessible.

I got to choose what I’d like from the breakfast menu, and didn’t have to just have what was given, but I opted for the Daphne du Maurier breakfast, or full English to you and me. It was served with a smile and absolutely delicious.

Planning a Visit to Jamaica Inn

The Jamaica Inn is situated midway between Bodmin and Launceston on the A30 at Bolventor. It’s clearly signposted by brown tourist signs when you get close, but popping PL15 7TS into your maps should get you there.

The new build that has been added caters to disabilities so there is a room for everyone, but if you want to stay in the most haunted part of the Inn, book one of the older rooms above the bar and museum. It has been bought by a hotel chain now, and this brings pros and cons with it, which will obviously change for personal preferences, but it is well worth a visit.

WiFi is free for the duration of your stay and very easy to connect to, and all rooms have tea and coffee making facilities, as well as a TV.

Breakfast can be added to your room at the time of booking and they have winter saver deals for all rooms with prices starting at £90 per room. You can also bring your dogs with you at a charge of £5 per night, booked in advance.

The Jamaica Inn also holds murder mystery evenings and regular ghost hunts, if you’re brave enough to attend.

All details for booking and what to expect on a visit can be found on their website at http://www.jamaicainn.co.uk

You can email at enquiry@jamaicainn.co.uk or call on 01566 86250.